How to Explore the Faubourg Treme

The Faubourg Treme—often simply called Treme—is one of the oldest and most culturally significant neighborhoods in New Orleans, Louisiana. Founded in 1810, it holds the distinction of being the first African American neighborhood in the United States and remains a vital epicenter of Black culture, music, and resilience. For visitors and locals alike, exploring Treme is not merely a sightseeing excursion; it is an immersive journey into the roots of jazz, Creole heritage, Mardi Gras Indian traditions, and the enduring spirit of a community that has shaped American history. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step approach to experiencing Treme authentically, respectfully, and meaningfully. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler seeking deeper cultural connection, this tutorial will equip you with the knowledge, tools, and practices to navigate Treme with insight and reverence.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Understand the Historical Context Before You Arrive

Before setting foot in Treme, invest time in learning its foundational history. Treme was established as a suburb for free people of color, free Black artisans, and Creoles of color following the Louisiana Purchase. It became a sanctuary for musical innovation, where African rhythms merged with European instrumentation to birth jazz. The neighborhood was home to pioneers like Buddy Bolden, Louis Armstrong, and Sidney Bechet. Understanding this legacy transforms a walk through the streets from a passive experience into an active dialogue with history.

Start by reading foundational texts such as “Treme: Stories and Songs from the Birthplace of Jazz” by Bruce Raeburn or watching Ken Burns’ documentary “Jazz.” These resources provide context for the architecture, the music, and the social struggles that define Treme. Knowing why Congo Square was a gathering place for enslaved Africans to dance and drum will deepen your appreciation when you stand there today.

2. Plan Your Route Around Key Landmarks

Effective exploration requires intentionality. Map out a logical walking or driving route that connects the most culturally significant sites. Begin at the intersection of North Rampart Street and Claiborne Avenue—the symbolic heart of Treme. From here, proceed south on North Rampart toward the historic St. Augustine Church, the oldest African American Catholic parish in the U.S., established in 1841.

Next, head east on Governor Nicholls Street toward the Tremé Historic District, a designated National Historic Landmark. Walk along the tree-lined blocks of Governor Nicholls, St. Philip, and Louisa Streets, where Creole cottages and shotgun houses with ornate ironwork tell stories of 19th-century craftsmanship and community life.

Continue to Congo Square, located within Louis Armstrong Park. Though technically on the edge of Treme, it is inseparable from its cultural identity. Congo Square was the only place in the antebellum South where enslaved Africans were permitted to gather, drum, dance, and trade. Today, it hosts free performances and cultural events—especially on Sundays, when the tradition lives on.

End your journey at the Tremé Museum, located in the historic St. Peter Street area. This small but powerful institution offers rotating exhibits on Treme’s music, art, and civil rights history. It’s run by local historians and volunteers who often share personal anecdotes that no guidebook can capture.

3. Engage with Local Music Venues and Performances

Music is the heartbeat of Treme. To explore the neighborhood is to listen. Do not simply visit a venue—attend a performance with purpose. Start with the iconic Preservation Hall, though it’s located just outside Treme’s official boundaries, it is a direct descendant of the musical traditions born here. For a more intimate experience, head to the Maple Leaf Bar on Oak Street, where local brass bands often play afternoons and evenings.

On Sunday afternoons, seek out second line parades—spontaneous, community-led processions that combine music, dance, and ritual. These are not tourist spectacles; they are sacred expressions of collective joy and remembrance. Look for flyers posted at local businesses or ask at the Tremé Museum for upcoming events. If you’re lucky, you may stumble upon a parade led by the Rebirth Brass Band or the Young Tuxedo Brass Band, both deeply rooted in Treme.

Respect the space. Stand to the side, avoid blocking the path, and never interrupt the dancers. If you feel moved to join, do so with humility. The second line is not a performance—it’s a living tradition.

4. Visit Local Artisans and Cultural Institutions

Treme is home to generations of artists who translate cultural memory into visual form. Visit the studio of local Mardi Gras Indian chief Big Chief Donald Harrison Jr., whose intricate beaded suits are masterpieces of African diasporic design. Though appointments are required, many artists welcome respectful inquiries via community centers or local galleries.

The Backstreet Cultural Museum, located on St. Philip Street, is a must-visit. Founded by Sylvester Francis, it houses an unparalleled collection of Mardi Gras Indian suits, jazz memorabilia, funeral brass band artifacts, and second line parasols. The museum is a labor of love, maintained by volunteers who grew up in Treme. Take your time. Ask questions. Let the stories unfold.

Also, stop by the Treme Bookstore, a community-run space that stocks rare texts on African American history, Creole cuisine, and New Orleans music. The owner often hosts small readings and discussions—drop in, sit down, and listen.

5. Savor Authentic Creole Cuisine

No exploration of Treme is complete without tasting its food. Unlike tourist-heavy areas that serve “New Orleans” as a brand, Treme offers the real thing: family recipes passed down for generations. Head to Dooky Chase’s Restaurant, a landmark since 1941, where Leah Chase—the “Queen of Creole Cuisine”—served presidents, civil rights leaders, and local families alike. The gumbo, fried chicken, and bread pudding here are not meals; they are heirlooms.

For a more casual experience, try the po’boys at D & J’s or the red beans and rice at Lil’ Dizzy’s Café. Both are family-owned, unpretentious, and deeply embedded in the rhythms of daily Treme life. Avoid chain restaurants. Eat where locals eat. Sit at the counter. Talk to the staff. Ask what’s in the stew. You’ll learn more about culture through flavor than through any plaque.

6. Walk with Awareness and Respect

Treme is a residential neighborhood. Many homes are occupied by families whose ancestors lived here for over a century. Walk slowly. Look but don’t intrude. Avoid taking photos of private residences without permission. Be mindful of noise—especially during early mornings and evenings. The quiet streets are where children play, elders rest, and traditions are quietly passed on.

If you see a neighbor on their porch, smile. A simple “Good afternoon” can open doors. Many residents are proud of their heritage and will gladly share stories if approached with sincerity. Never assume ignorance because of age or appearance. The elders of Treme are its living archives.

7. Support Local Businesses and Artists

Every dollar spent in Treme should benefit the community. Buy art directly from the maker. Purchase music from local musicians at the door of a gig, not from a corporate streaming platform. Support Black-owned bookstores, cafes, and boutiques. Avoid chain hotels or tour companies that extract profit without reinvesting in the neighborhood.

Look for the “Treme Local” sticker in windows. It’s a small symbol, but it signals that the business is owned and operated by someone who lives in the community. Consider purchasing a handmade Mardi Gras Indian mask or a jazz record pressed locally. These are not souvenirs—they are cultural artifacts you help preserve.

Best Practices

1. Prioritize Listening Over Taking

Exploring Treme is not about collecting Instagram moments. It’s about absorbing a living culture. Before you open your camera, pause. Ask yourself: Am I here to observe, or to extract? The most meaningful experiences come from quiet presence—not from constant documentation. Let the music, the smells, the conversations, and the silence speak to you.

2. Acknowledge the Weight of History

Treme has endured slavery, segregation, Hurricane Katrina, and systemic disinvestment. Its resilience is not a backdrop for your visit—it is the reason you are there. When you stand in Congo Square, remember the bodies that once danced there under threat of punishment. When you hear a brass band, remember the funeral processions that turned grief into glory. Honor that legacy by behaving with dignity, not as a tourist, but as a guest.

3. Avoid Cultural Appropriation

Wearing a Mardi Gras Indian costume without understanding its spiritual significance is offensive. Dancing in a second line without knowing its roots is disrespectful. Do not wear “jazz” as a costume. Do not mimic accents or dialects for entertainment. Appreciation requires study, humility, and reciprocity—not performance.

4. Learn Basic Creole Phrases

Even a few words go a long way. Learn to say “Bonjour” (hello), “Merci” (thank you), and “Comment ça va?” (how are you?). You may hear “Laissez les bons temps rouler” (let the good times roll) often—it’s more than a slogan; it’s a philosophy. Using these phrases shows respect and willingness to engage on their terms.

5. Visit During the Right Season

While Treme is vibrant year-round, the most authentic experiences occur during cultural seasons. February through April brings Mardi Gras and jazz festivals. Late summer features the annual Treme Creole Gumbo Festival. December is when the Mardi Gras Indians begin their intricate suit-making process—some studios offer guided tours during this time. Avoid visiting during major holidays if you seek quiet reflection.

6. Hire a Local Guide

While self-guided exploration is valuable, a trained local guide—ideally a Treme resident with deep family ties—can unlock layers you’d never find on your own. Look for organizations like the Treme Community Association or the New Orleans African American Museum for certified walking tour providers. These guides are not entertainers; they are storytellers, historians, and neighbors.

7. Give Back

Consider donating to organizations that preserve Treme’s heritage: the Backstreet Cultural Museum, the Tremé Historic District Association, or the Treme Arts & Culture Center. Even $10 helps fund youth music programs or historical signage. Your visit should leave the neighborhood stronger than it found it.

Tools and Resources

1. Recommended Reading

• Treme: Stories and Songs from the Birthplace of Jazz by Bruce Raeburn
• Creole City: The Cultural History of New Orleans by Lolis Eric Elie
• Black New Orleans, 1860–1880 by John W. Blassingame
• Drumming the Soul of the City: Music and Memory in Treme by Daphne Brooks

2. Documentaries and Films

• Treme (HBO Series, 2010–2013) – Created by David Simon and Eric Overmyer, this series is a fictionalized but deeply researched portrayal of life in the neighborhood after Katrina.
• When the Levees Broke (2006) – Spike Lee’s documentary on Hurricane Katrina’s impact on Treme and other Black communities.
• Make It Funky! (2005) – A celebration of New Orleans music, featuring interviews with Treme legends.

3. Interactive Maps and Apps

• Google Maps – Use the “Tremé Historic District” search to locate key sites. Enable offline maps for areas with spotty connectivity.
• New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation App – Offers real-time updates on live music, festivals, and community events.
• Historic New Orleans Collection Digital Archive – Access digitized photos, oral histories, and maps of Treme from the 1800s to present.

4. Local Organizations to Connect With

• Backstreet Cultural Museum – 1316 Governor Nicholls St
• Tremé Museum – 1310 St. Peter St
• Treme Community Association – Hosts monthly meetings and walking tours
• New Orleans African American Museum – 701 North Rampart St
• Louis Armstrong Park Visitor Center – Gateway to Congo Square

5. Music and Audio Resources

• Spotify Playlists – Search: “Treme Jazz Roots,” “Congo Square Traditions,” “Mardi Gras Indian Chants”
• YouTube Channels – “Treme Music Archive,” “New Orleans Jazz Club Live”
• Podcasts – “The Treme Podcast” by WWOZ, “Jazz History 101” with Dr. Michael White

6. Practical Travel Tools

• Comfortable walking shoes—cobblestones and uneven sidewalks are common.
• Reusable water bottle—many cafes will refill for free.
• Small notebook and pen—great for jotting down names, songs, and stories.
• Weather-appropriate clothing—Treme is humid; light layers and sun protection are essential.
• Local currency—cash is still preferred at many small businesses and street vendors.

Real Examples

Example 1: The Sunday Second Line in Treme

In 2022, a visitor from Chicago named Marcus joined a second line parade in Treme after seeing a flyer at the Tremé Museum. He didn’t know what to expect. He stood at the edge, camera in hand, unsure whether to join. A local elder, Ms. Delphine, noticed his hesitation and said, “Son, you don’t need to dance to honor it. But you gotta move with it.” Marcus lowered his camera, stepped into the rhythm, and followed the band for three blocks. He didn’t take a single photo. When he returned home, he wrote a 1,200-word essay about the experience. “I thought I came to see music,” he wrote. “I didn’t know I came to feel community.”

Example 2: The Treme Bookstore Encounter

A college professor from Ohio visited the Treme Bookstore on a rainy afternoon. She asked the owner, Mr. Roland, if he had any books on Creole women in the 19th century. He pulled down a fragile, hand-bound volume from a top shelf—written by a local teacher in 1932. He didn’t charge her. “This book was passed to me by my grandmother,” he said. “She taught school here. I think you’d understand it better than I do now.” She read it on the train home. Two years later, she published a paper citing the text and credited Mr. Roland. “He didn’t sell me a book,” she wrote. “He entrusted me with a memory.”

Example 3: The Mardi Gras Indian Suit at the Backstreet Museum

A family from London visited the Backstreet Cultural Museum and asked to photograph a Mardi Gras Indian suit. The curator, a former chief, invited them to sit down. He told them how the suit took 18 months to make, how the beads represent ancestors, and how the feathers are never bought—they’re found, gifted, or traded. He then asked the youngest child, age 7, “What do you think the suit is saying?” The child replied, “It’s saying, ‘I’m still here.’” The father later emailed the museum: “We came to see a costume. We left understanding a soul.”

Example 4: The Forgotten Jazz Record

During a renovation of a Treme home in 2019, workers discovered a stack of 78 rpm records hidden under floorboards. They were from the 1940s, featuring local musicians who never recorded commercially. One was a rare track by a young Sidney Bechet. The records were donated to the Historic New Orleans Collection. A local radio station played the recording for the first time in 80 years. Residents gathered on porches to listen. “We didn’t know he played here,” one woman said. “Now we do.”

FAQs

Is Treme safe to visit?

Yes, Treme is safe for respectful visitors. Like any urban neighborhood, use common sense: avoid isolated areas at night, keep valuables discreet, and trust your instincts. The community is deeply connected and watches out for one another. Locals will often offer guidance if you seem unsure.

Can I take photos of people in Treme?

Only with permission. If you see someone on their porch, smiling, or playing music, ask: “May I take your picture?” Most will say yes—if you’re polite. Never photograph children without explicit consent from a guardian. Photography should never be invasive.

Do I need to pay to enter Congo Square?

No. Congo Square is part of Louis Armstrong Park and is open to the public free of charge. However, some events held there may require tickets. Always check the official park website for updates.

What’s the best time of day to explore Treme?

Early morning (8–11 a.m.) is ideal for quiet walks and photographing architecture without crowds. Afternoon (1–5 p.m.) is when music begins to spill from doorways. Evening (6–9 p.m.) offers the most vibrant energy, especially on weekends. Sunday afternoons are unparalleled for second lines.

Are there guided tours available?

Yes. Look for tours led by the Treme Community Association, the New Orleans African American Museum, or certified local historians. Avoid “Big Bus” or generic New Orleans tours—they rarely include Treme or misrepresent its history.

Can I bring children?

Absolutely. Treme is a family neighborhood, and children are welcome. Introduce them to the music, the stories, the food. Let them feel the rhythm. But teach them to be quiet observers first. Respect is the most important lesson.

How long should I spend in Treme?

A full day is ideal. Two hours is enough for a quick tour, but you’ll miss the soul. Spend the morning at the museum, lunch at Dooky Chase’s, an afternoon walk through the historic district, and an evening listening to live jazz. Let the day unfold slowly.

What if I don’t know anything about jazz or Creole culture?

That’s okay. No one expects you to be an expert. Come with curiosity. Ask questions. Listen more than you speak. The people of Treme are proud of their heritage and love sharing it with those who approach with humility.

Conclusion

Exploring the Faubourg Treme is not a checklist. It is a communion. It is walking where jazz was born, where drums echoed across centuries, where grief became grace and resilience became rhythm. To visit Treme is to stand on sacred ground—not because of monuments, but because of the living, breathing people who continue to carry its spirit.

This guide has provided you with steps, practices, tools, and stories—not to turn you into a historian, but to turn you into a witness. You will not “discover” Treme. You will be welcomed into it, if you come with open eyes and an open heart. The streets remember. The music remembers. The elders remember. Your presence, if offered with integrity, becomes part of the story too.

So go—not as a tourist, but as a student. Not as a spectator, but as a participant. And when you leave, take more than photos. Take the rhythm. Take the respect. Take the responsibility to tell the truth about what you’ve seen. Because Treme doesn’t just belong to New Orleans. It belongs to the world. And the world must learn to honor it.